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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.